INCI: Ceramide AP - Also known as: Ceramide 6-II, Alpha-hydroxy fatty acid / phytosphingosine ceramide

QUICK FACTS

What is Ceramide AP?

Ceramide AP - where AP designates alpha-hydroxy fatty acid linked to a phytosphingosine backbone - is a naturally occurring ceramide subtype found within the stratum corneum of healthy human skin. It belongs to the alpha-hydroxy ceramide family, distinguished by a hydroxyl group on the alpha carbon of the fatty acid chain. This structural feature gives Ceramide AP slightly different physical properties compared to non-hydroxy ceramides like Ceramide NP, allowing it to occupy a complementary position within the lamellar lipid assembly of the stratum corneum.

In older nomenclature, Ceramide AP was designated Ceramide 6-II. The current INCI nomenclature more precisely describes its chemistry: alpha-hydroxy fatty acid paired with phytosphingosine. This ceramide type is consistently identified in human skin lipid profiling research, appearing as a regular constituent of the ceramide distribution in the stratum corneum across skin types and ages - though its relative abundance changes as skin ages or becomes compromised over time.

Sweet Chemistry formulates Ceramide AP at 3% within the ceramide complex of three of its four formulas - always alongside Ceramide NP, and in the creams also alongside Ceramide EOP - to provide a ceramide distribution designed to more accurately reflect the lipid character of healthy skin than a single-ceramide formulation.

What does it do for skin?

Ceramide AP is studied in connection with the structural organization of the lamellar bodies within the stratum corneum, where it works alongside Ceramide NP and Ceramide EOP to contribute to the multi-ceramide lipid matrix associated with the skin's water permeability management. Its alpha-hydroxy fatty acid component is researched in connection with the corneodesmosomes - the protein junctions that link corneocytes - and their regulated breakdown during desquamation, the skin's natural renewal process. Research in this area suggests Ceramide AP may play a role in supporting a more organized, balanced renewal process, which is associated with a smoother, more even-looking surface texture.

Like all physiological ceramides, Ceramide AP is also associated with downstream barrier-sealing and soothing effects. When the ceramide composition of the stratum corneum more closely reflects a healthy profile, the skin's surface environment may support its own maintenance processes more effectively - associated with a less reactive, more comfortable skin surface over consistent use.

Within the Sweet Chemistry water-based formulas, Ceramide AP is co-formulated with Ceramide NP in a system that also contains phytosphingosine, cholesterol, niacinamide (in the Hydra-Serum), and the full Matrikynes® peptide complex. Ceramide AP functions as one component of a coherent, multi-active barrier and density approach rather than in isolation.

FOUND IN

In 3 Formulas

Ceramide AP appears across Sweet Chemistry's three water-based formulas as part of a multi-ceramide barrier approach - delivering ceramide diversity rather than relying on a single ceramide type.

Nourishment - All Skin Types

Barrier Repairing Hydra-Serum 3% Pure Ceramides (NP + AP) - 1.0 oz / 30 ml

The Hydra-Serum pairs Ceramide AP with Ceramide NP and co-delivers them with 5% niacinamide, 1% cholesterol, 2% seaweed glycan, and 3% Matrikynes® peptides in a 40%-active, water-based emulsion.

Hydration - Dry to Normal

Elasticity Reinforcing Hydra-Cream 3% Ceramide, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol Blend (incl. Ceramide AP) - 1.7 oz / 50 ml

In the Hydra-Cream, Ceramide AP is part of the full three-ceramide complex (EOP, AP, NP) in a barrier lipid blend with phytosphingosine and cholesterol - delivered within a 40%-active emulsion with a cushioned satin finish.

Hydration - Dry to Dehydrated

Elasticity Reinforcing Lipid-Cream 3% Ceramide, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol Blend (incl. Ceramide AP) - 1.7 oz / 50 ml

The Lipid-Cream delivers Ceramide AP within the three-ceramide barrier blend alongside shea butter and nourishing seed oils, designed for chronically dry and dehydrated skin.

WORKS TOGETHER WITH

Barrier Lipid Ceramide NP

INCI: Ceramide NP.

The most abundant physiological ceramide in the stratum corneum, present in all four Sweet Chemistry formulas as the primary ceramide in every barrier lipid complex. Synergy Note: Ceramide NP and Ceramide AP are naturally co-occurring in healthy skin's lamellar structure. Combining them topically is designed to provide a broader, more representative ceramide approach than either ceramide alone.

Barrier Lipid Ceramide EOP

INCI: Ceramide EOP.

An acylceramide that co-occurs with Ceramide AP in the Hydra-Cream and Lipid-Cream, studied in connection with the lamellar scaffolding that other ceramides organize within. Synergy Note: The combination of Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, and Ceramide NP is designed to reflect the multi-ceramide hierarchy found in healthy stratum corneum, with each type contributing a different structural character.

Vitamin B3 Niacinamide

INCI: Niacinamide.

At 5% in the Barrier Repairing Hydra-Serum, niacinamide has been studied in connection with the skin's endogenous ceramide production. Synergy Note: Ceramide AP directly replenishes topically; niacinamide is researched in connection with supporting the skin's own ceramide production - a complementary deliver-and-support approach to the barrier lipid environment.

Ceramide Precursor Phytosphingosine

INCI: Phytosphingosine.

Present across all four formulas, phytosphingosine is a ceramide biosynthesis precursor also studied in connection with a more comfortable skin surface. Synergy Note: Phytosphingosine may be converted to ceramides in the epidermis, potentially extending the formula's ceramide-replenishing character beyond the topically applied amount.