INCI: Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 - Also known as: Pal-KTTKSYY, Acetyl Octapeptide-3 Precursor, ACTH-Derived Peptide

QUICK FACTS

A NOTE ON NAMING

In the Barrier Repairing Hydra-Serum, this ingredient is listed as Palmitate Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 — an alternative INCI convention for the same compound. In the Hydra-Cream and Lipid-Cream it appears as Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18. The ingredient and its function are identical across all three formulas.

What is Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18?

Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 is a palmitoylated seven-amino-acid peptide whose sequence is derived from a fragment of ACTH (adrenocorticotropic hormone) — specifically from a neurotransmitter-associated portion of the hormone sequence. This ACTH-derived lineage places Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 in a category of "neuropeptide-like" or "neuro-cosmetic" signal peptides — synthetic peptides studied in connection with the neuromuscular junction, the interface between motor nerves and the facial muscle cells responsible for expression lines and dynamic wrinkles.

The research basis for this category of peptide draws on the mechanism of botulinum toxin (Botox) — which prevents muscle contraction by blocking acetylcholine release at the neuromuscular junction. Peptides in the ACTH-derived class are studied in connection with a milder modulation of this neuromuscular signaling environment — not blocking muscle contraction, but studied in connection with a reduction in the frequency and intensity of muscle fiber recruitment at the skin surface level. The cosmetic outcome associated with this research is an improvement in the appearance of expression lines and dynamic wrinkles over consistent use.

At Sweet Chemistry, Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 is the fourth peptide in the five-peptide industry complex — pairing the collagen and elastin structural signals of the other peptides with this neuromuscular-associated approach to the appearance of expression-related lines.

What does it do for skin?

Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 is studied in connection with the neuromuscular junction environment and its association with the appearance of expression-related fine lines and dynamic wrinkles. Research on this class of ACTH-derived peptides has associated it with a reduction in the visible depth of expression lines over consistent use — an approach to wrinkle appearance that is mechanistically distinct from the collagen and elastin signaling of the other industry peptides in the complex.

Published study data on this peptide class has associated it with measurable improvements in the appearance of wrinkle depth and skin smoothness — outcomes attributed to its studied neuro-cosmetic character. These are cosmetic association research findings rather than clinical claims, and individual results will vary. The Sweet Chemistry formula's independent clinical study showed measurable improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in 68% of subjects across the Max Repair System — a result that reflects the cumulative contribution of the multi-peptide approach, including Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18's distinct mechanism.

The palmitoyl modification serves the essential penetration function — enabling the ACTH-derived peptide sequence to move through the lipid-rich stratum corneum to reach the viable epidermis and, potentially, the dermal-epidermal junction environment where neuromuscular signaling occurs.

FOUND IN

In 3 Formulas — Listed Under Two INCI Names

Nourishment - All Skin Types

Barrier Repairing Hydra-Serum Listed as Palmitate Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 - 1.0 oz / 30 ml

Hydration - Dry to Normal

Elasticity Reinforcing Hydra-Cream Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 - 1.7 oz / 50 ml

Hydration - Dry to Dehydrated

Elasticity Reinforcing Lipid-Cream Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 - 1.7 oz / 50 ml

WORKS TOGETHER WITH

Collagen Signal Peptide Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl)

INCI: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4.

Part of the five-peptide complex, always formulated alongside Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18. Synergy Note: Matrixyl addresses fibrillar collagen signaling; Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 addresses the neuromuscular junction-associated appearance of expression lines. Together they cover two distinct anti-aging peptide mechanisms — structural matrix and neuro-cosmetic — within the same formula.

Elastin Signal Peptide Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52

INCI: Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52.

Part of the five-peptide complex. Synergy Note: Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52 targets elastin matrix renewal; Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 targets the neuro-cosmetic expression line dimension. Together they address the structural bounce-back and the dynamic line appearance aspects of the skin's firmness environment.

ECM Peptide Complex Matrikynes® Bone Peptides

INCI: Hydrolyzed Cow Bone Extract.

At 3% in all four formulas. Synergy Note: Matrikynes® provides broad-spectrum ECM matrikine signaling; Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 adds a neuro-cosmetic dimension that ECM signaling alone does not address — together they cover both the matrix structure and the neuromuscular expression line appearance dimensions of the anti-aging approach.