Quick Facts

What is Squalane?

Squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon derived from squalene - a lipid produced naturally by the skin's own sebaceous glands and one of the most abundant components of human sebum. In its unsaturated form, squalene is chemically unstable and prone to oxidation upon air exposure; hydrogenation converts it to squalane, a fully saturated, chemically stable molecule that retains the skin-compatible character of squalene without the oxidation liability. The result is an emollient that is both structurally analogous to a lipid the skin already produces and exceptionally stable in formulation.

Sweet Chemistry sources squalane from olive - specifically from the hydrogenation of squalene derived from olive oil, a renewable and historically established source. Olive-derived squalane is widely considered the benchmark for purity and skin compatibility among plant-derived squalane options, and represents a significant departure from the shark liver squalene that was once common in cosmetic formulations. It is colorless, odorless, and has a molecular weight and texture profile that positions it as one of the lightest, most skin-like emollients available.

At 7% in the Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum, squalane is the highest-concentration emollient in the Sweet Chemistry lineup - providing the lipid-phase environment that carries every other active in the waterless formula.

What does Squalane do for the skin?

Squalane functions primarily as an emollient and skin-conditioning lipid that mirrors the skin's own sebum in character. When applied topically, it is associated with ready absorption without a greasy or heavily occlusive feel - a result of its structural similarity to the skin's endogenous lipid production. It is studied in connection with a reduction in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) by forming a permeable but protective lipid film on the skin's surface, associated with a slowing of moisture evaporation without the heaviness linked to mineral oil-based occlusives.

Beyond moisture retention, squalane is researched in connection with the skin's surface lipid quality - particularly relevant in skin types where natural sebum production is insufficient or disrupted by age, environment, or cleansing habits. By replenishing the skin's surface lipid character, squalane is associated with a reduction in the tight, rough, dehydrated-feeling sensation that follows sebum depletion, and with creating a surface environment that complements the activity of barrier lipids and ceramides in the same formula.

In the Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum specifically, squalane's role extends beyond emollience. At 7%, it acts as the primary carrier medium for the entire formula - delivering the 7% THD ascorbate, 3% Matrikynes® peptides, ceramide complex, and CoQ10 to the skin in an anhydrous, high-potency lipid environment. Squalane's exceptional stability as a saturated hydrocarbon means it does not oxidize, does not interact negatively with sensitive actives, and helps maintain the formula's potency from first to last use.

Found In

In 3 Formulas

Squalane is present across three of the four Sweet Chemistry formulas - from the richest emollient cream to the 100%-active waterless serum, where it provides a foundational delivery role for the entire formula.

Hydration - Dry to Normal

Elasticity Reinforcing Hydra-Cream Squalane - 1.7 oz / 50 ml

In the Hydra-Cream, squalane contributes a lightweight emollient character alongside organic glycerin and beta-glucan within a 40%-active emulsion. It supports the non-greasy, skin-like finish that allows this cream to deliver clinical active levels without feeling heavy.

Hydration - Dry to Dehydrated

Elasticity Reinforcing Lipid-Cream Squalane - 1.7 oz / 50 ml

In the Lipid-Cream, squalane works alongside shea butter, sea buckthorn seed oil, and jojoba seed oil as part of the nourishing lipid system designed for dry and dehydrated skin. Its lightweight, non-comedogenic character prevents the formula from feeling heavy despite its richness.

Nourishment - Dry to Combination

Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum 7% Squalane - 1.0 oz / 30 ml

At 7% in the Oil-Serum, squalane is the primary emollient carrier in a 100%-active, waterless formula. It delivers 7% THD ascorbate, 3% Matrikynes® peptides, 3% ceramides, and 0.5% CoQ10 to the skin in a lipid-phase environment - associated with TEWL reduction and skin conditioning while enabling every active to function within its optimal delivery medium.

Works Together With

ECM Peptide Complex Matrikynes® Bone Peptides
INCI: Hydrolyzed Cow Bone Extract.
At 3% in all four formulas. In the Oil-Serum, Matrikynes® peptides are carried and delivered by the squalane base. Synergy Note: Squalane's lipid-phase environment enables the Oil-Serum's waterless peptide delivery - providing the stable, non-reactive carrier that makes a 100%-active, concentration-intensive formula possible. 

Stable Vitamin C THD Ascorbate
INCI: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.
At 7% in the Oil-Serum and 2% in both creams. THD ascorbate is oil-soluble and therefore carried in the same lipid phase as squalane. Synergy Note: Squalane's chemical stability as a saturated hydrocarbon makes it a non-reactive carrier that helps protect the potency of a sensitive active - preserving THD ascorbate's activity from first application to last. 

Barrier Lipid Ceramide NP + Ceramide NG
INCI: Ceramide NP, Ceramide NG.
The two ceramides present in the Oil-Serum alongside squalane, forming the anhydrous barrier lipid complex. Synergy Note: Squalane contributes surface emollience and TEWL-reducing properties, while ceramides are studied in connection with restoring the structural lamellar barrier - together they address moisture retention from different layers and with different mechanisms. 

Mitochondrial Antioxidant Ubiquinone (CoQ10)
INCI: Ubiquinone.
At 0.5% in the Oil-Serum, CoQ10 is a lipid-soluble antioxidant carried within the squalane-based formula. Synergy Note: Both squalane and CoQ10 are native to the skin's sebum and surface lipid chemistry. Delivering CoQ10 within a squalane carrier mirrors the lipid-mediated environment in which this antioxidant is naturally associated with transport in the skin.