INCI: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate - Also known as: THD Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Oil-Soluble Vitamin C
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Key |
Value |
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INCI Name |
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate |
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Category |
Stable Vitamin C Derivative / Oil-Soluble Antioxidant |
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Concentration in Formula |
2% in the Elasticity Reinforcing Hydra-Cream and Elasticity Reinforcing Lipid-Cream; 7% in the Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum |
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Suitable For |
All skin types and tones; well-tolerated by sensitive skin |
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Origin |
Synthetic (esterified form of L-ascorbic acid) |
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Irritation Risk |
Low - significantly more stable and less irritating than L-ascorbic acid |
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Comedogenic Rating |
0 |
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Research Base |
Extensively studied; peer-reviewed literature on penetration, antioxidant activity, and tone-related results available |
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD ascorbate) is a vitamin C derivative formed by esterifying L-ascorbic acid with tetrahexyldecanol, a fatty alcohol. This esterification converts the inherently unstable, water-soluble vitamin C molecule into a highly stable, oil-soluble form associated with greater penetration efficiency through the stratum corneum than L-ascorbic acid. Where conventional vitamin C formulations degrade rapidly on exposure to air, light, and water - and require a low pH that many skin types find uncomfortable - THD ascorbate is chemically robust, pH-neutral, and exceptionally well-tolerated.
Its oil solubility is its most significant structural advantage. The stratum corneum is a predominantly lipid-rich environment; water-soluble actives must overcome this environment to reach the viable epidermis where collagen-related processes and pigmentation occur. Oil-soluble actives, by contrast, move through the lipid bilayers toward the deeper skin layers. Published research suggests that THD ascorbate may achieve greater skin penetration than L-ascorbic acid at equivalent concentrations - meaning a greater proportion of the vitamin C may reach the cellular targets where it can do meaningful work.
At Sweet Chemistry, THD ascorbate is formulated at 2% in both creams and at a notably high 7% in the Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum - a waterless, 100%-active formula that provides the ideal lipid-phase environment for oil-soluble vitamin C delivery at its highest potency in the lineup.
THD ascorbate is associated with three complementary effects that are well-documented in the skincare research literature. First, as an antioxidant, it is studied for its potential to neutralize free radicals - including reactive oxygen species associated with UV exposure - within the lipid phase of the skin, with research linking this to a reduction in the visible markers of oxidative stress over time. Second, vitamin C is well-recognized in connection with the collagen synthesis process as an essential cofactor; research suggests that without adequate vitamin C, the enzymes associated with stable collagen production cannot function at their best. Third, vitamin C has been extensively studied for its association with a more even-looking skin tone, particularly in connection with the appearance of hyperpigmentation over consistent use.
The clinical study data from the Sweet Chemistry Max Repair System reflects outcomes consistent with all three of these research areas. An independent study showed a statistically significant reduction in the appearance of hyperpigmentation and age spots in 73% of subjects within 4 weeks, alongside meaningful improvements in the appearance of skin density, barrier function, and fine lines and wrinkles. The collagen-related activity associated with THD ascorbate in the research literature pairs well with the Matrikynes® peptide system: Matrikynes® may signal fibroblast activity, while vitamin C supports the biochemical environment in which collagen formation is studied to depend.
In the Oil-Serum, 7% THD ascorbate is the highest-concentration ingredient in the formula after squalane - reflecting a deliberate formulation choice to maximize the brightening, antioxidant, and collagen-supportive contribution of the formula with the highest overall active delivery in the lineup.
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Result |
% of Subjects |
Timeframe |
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Statistically significant reduction in the appearance of hyperpigmentation and age spots |
73% |
Within 4 weeks |
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Measurable reduction in the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles |
68% |
Within 4 weeks |
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Statistically significant improvement in skin density (associated with dermal collagen) |
70% |
Within 4 weeks |
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Agreed their skin looks healthier |
93% |
Self-assessment |
Results from an independent clinical study of the Max Repair System. Individual results may vary.
In 3 Formulas - from 2% to 7%
THD ascorbate is formulated at two concentrations across the Sweet Chemistry lineup: 2% in both creams for daily brightening and collagen support, and 7% in the Oil-Serum for the highest-potency vitamin C delivery in the system.
Hydration - Dry to Normal
Elasticity Reinforcing Hydra-Cream 2% THD Ascorbate - 1.7 oz / 50 ml
The Hydra-Cream delivers 2% THD ascorbate alongside 3% Matrikynes® peptides, a full ceramide barrier complex, and the enzymatic antioxidant trio - creating a well-rounded collagen-supportive environment in a cushioned satin finish for dry to normal skin.
Hydration - Dry to Dehydrated
Elasticity Reinforcing Lipid-Cream 2% THD Ascorbate - 1.7 oz / 50 ml
The Lipid-Cream pairs 2% THD ascorbate with 3% Matrikynes® peptides, shea butter, sea buckthorn seed oil, and jojoba seed oil - brightening and collagen support in the richest, most emollient formula in the lineup.
Nourishment - Dry to Combination
Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum 7% THD Ascorbate - 1.0 oz / 30 ml
At 7%, THD ascorbate reaches its highest concentration in the Sweet Chemistry system within a 100%-active, waterless formula. Delivered in a squalane-based lipid carrier alongside 3% Matrikynes® peptides, 3% ceramides, and 0.5% CoQ10 for the most intensive brightening and antioxidant experience in the lineup.
ECM Peptide Complex Matrikynes® Bone Peptides
INCI: Hydrolyzed Cow Bone Extract.
At 3% across all four formulas, Matrikynes® is associated with fibroblast signaling for new collagen and elastin, with study results suggesting visible improvements in skin density and fine line appearance. Synergy Note: Matrikynes® may provide the peptide signal for collagen activity; THD ascorbate is studied as the vitamin C cofactor that the collagen formation process depends on. These two actives address complementary aspects of the same visible goal. View Profile - /pages/ingredients/matrikynes-bone-peptidesA
Universal Antioxidant Thioctic Acid (Alpha-Lipoic Acid)
INCI: Thioctic Acid.
Present in all three water-based formulas. A water-and-oil soluble antioxidant researched for its possible role in supporting the regeneration of oxidized vitamin C back to its active state. Synergy Note: Research suggests alpha-lipoic acid may help restore the functional form of vitamin C in the same formula - potentially extending the antioxidant activity of the THD ascorbate it accompanies. View Profile - /pages/ingredients/thioctic-acid
Polyphenol Antioxidant Resveratrol
INCI: Resveratrol.
Present in all three water-based Sweet Chemistry formulas alongside THD ascorbate in the creams. Researched in connection with collagen-degrading enzyme activity and longevity pathways. Synergy Note: THD ascorbate is studied in connection with tone-evenness; resveratrol has been researched for its association with protecting existing collagen. Together they address two of the most visible markers of skin aging simultaneously. View Profile - /pages/ingredients/resveratrol
Skin-Identical Lipid Squalane
INCI: Squalane.
At 7% in the Oil-Serum, squalane is the lipid-phase carrier through which THD ascorbate is delivered at its highest concentration in the Sweet Chemistry lineup. Synergy Note: THD ascorbate is oil-soluble by design. Its delivery within a squalane-based lipid vehicle is optimized for the penetration efficiency that research literature associates with this vitamin C form's clinical advantage over water-soluble alternatives. View Profile - /pages/ingredients/squalane
