INCI: Aspartic Acid - Also known as: L-Aspartic Acid, Asp, D
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Key |
Value |
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INCI Name |
Aspartic Acid |
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Category |
Non-Essential Acidic Amino Acid / NMF Component |
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Concentration in Formula |
Part of the 1% amino acid blend in the Barrier Repairing Hydra-Serum, Elasticity Reinforcing Hydra-Cream, and Elasticity Reinforcing Lipid-Cream |
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Suitable For |
All skin types and tones |
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Origin |
Synthetic (bioidentical to naturally occurring L-aspartic acid) |
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Irritation Risk |
Zero |
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Comedogenic Rating |
0 |
Aspartic acid is a non-essential acidic amino acid - one of only two amino acids (alongside glutamic acid) that carry a negatively charged side chain at physiological pH. This negative charge makes aspartic acid one of the most hydrophilic members of the amino acid family, giving it strong water-attracting character and making it a meaningful contributor to the NMF water-binding network in the stratum corneum. Its presence among the free amino acids released by filaggrin breakdown in the epidermis positions it as a skin-identical component of the moisture management system the skin maintains naturally.
Beyond its NMF role, aspartic acid is a central metabolic amino acid - it participates in the urea cycle and the TCA cycle (the primary cellular energy pathway), and is a direct biosynthetic precursor to asparagine, methionine, threonine, and isoleucine. In the skin, aspartic acid's role in cellular energy metabolism is studied in connection with supporting the metabolic activity of keratinocytes and fibroblasts - the two primary skin cell types responsible for barrier maintenance and structural matrix production.
At Sweet Chemistry, aspartic acid is the second amino acid listed after arginine in the eleven-amino-acid blend, reflecting its meaningful contribution to the NMF amino acid profile. Its acidic character adds ionic balance to a blend that also contains basic amino acids like arginine and histidine - helping to create a more physiologically representative amino acid environment.
In topical application, aspartic acid contributes primarily as a hygroscopic NMF amino acid, drawing water toward the stratum corneum and supporting the moisture-retaining capacity of the upper skin layers. Its negatively charged side chain at physiological pH gives it strong water-molecule interaction - making it one of the more potent individual water-binding amino acids in the blend.
Aspartic acid's contribution to the broader amino acid environment of the Sweet Chemistry formulas also extends to ionic balance. The eleven-amino-acid blend contains amino acids of different charges and polarities - aspartic acid's acidic character counterbalances the basic charges of arginine and histidine, creating a more complete representation of the NMF's actual ionic composition rather than a simplified one-dimensional amino acid approach.
Research on aspartic acid in connection with keratinocyte and fibroblast metabolism is primarily nutritional in context, but its established role in cellular energy pathways provides a rational basis for its inclusion in formulas targeting active skin renewal. In the context of a formula delivering Matrikynes® bone peptides associated with renewal activity, the local metabolic amino acid environment - of which aspartic acid is a component - supports the cellular conditions in which that activity takes place.
In 3 Formulas as Part of the 1% Amino Acid Blend
Aspartic acid is the negatively charged counterpart to the basic amino acids in Sweet Chemistry's eleven-amino-acid complex - contributing ionic balance and hydrophilic NMF character across all three water-based formulas.
Nourishment - All Skin Types
Barrier Repairing Hydra-Serum 1% Amino Acid Blend (incl. Aspartic Acid) - 1.0 oz / 30 ml
The Hydra-Serum delivers the full eleven-amino-acid complex alongside PCA, sodium PCA, sodium lactate, and four forms of hyaluronic acid in a 40%-active emulsion.
Hydration - Dry to Normal
Elasticity Reinforcing Hydra-Cream 1% Amino Acid Blend (incl. Aspartic Acid) - 1.7 oz / 50 ml
The Hydra-Cream pairs the full amino acid complex with 3% Matrikynes® peptides and 2% THD ascorbate in a 40%-active cushioned satin finish for dry to normal skin.
Hydration - Dry to Dehydrated
Elasticity Reinforcing Lipid-Cream 1% Amino Acid Blend (incl. Aspartic Acid) - 1.7 oz / 50 ml
In the Lipid-Cream, aspartic acid contributes to the NMF amino acid system within the most emollient formula in the Sweet Chemistry lineup.
Basic Amino Acid Arginine
INCI: Arginine.
A positively charged essential amino acid in the blend, present alongside aspartic acid across all three water-based formulas. Synergy Note: Aspartic acid (acidic, negatively charged) and arginine (basic, positively charged) are the ionic opposites of the amino acid blend - their co-presence creates a more balanced ionic NMF environment that reflects the actual charge diversity of healthy skin's free amino acid pool.
NMF Component PCA
INCI: PCA.
A skin-identical NMF component present alongside aspartic acid in all three water-based formulas. Synergy Note: PCA's negative charge at physiological pH and aspartic acid's acidic character both contribute to the anionic dimension of the NMF's ionic environment - together they reinforce the negatively charged moisture-binding character of healthy skin's stratum corneum.
ECM Peptide Complex Matrikynes® Bone Peptides
INCI: Hydrolyzed Cow Bone Extract.
At 3% in all four formulas, associated with improvements in the appearance of skin density and aging signs. Synergy Note: Aspartic acid's studied role in cellular energy metabolism contributes to the local metabolic environment in which Matrikynes® peptide-related renewal activity takes place - substrate availability and signaling working in complement.
