INCI: Citric Acid - Also known as: Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), E330
|
Key |
Value |
|
INCI Name |
Citric Acid |
|
Category |
Alpha Hydroxy Acid / pH Adjuster / Antioxidant |
|
Concentration in Formula |
Functional trace level in the Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum |
|
Suitable For |
All skin types; the Oil-Serum is designed for dry to combination skin |
|
Origin |
Natural (derived from citrus fermentation) |
|
Irritation Risk |
Low at pH-adjusting concentrations |
|
Comedogenic Rating |
0 |
Citric acid is a naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) found in citrus fruits and produced commercially through the fermentation of sugars by Aspergillus niger. It is one of the most extensively documented organic acids in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulation, with a dual function: it serves as a pH optimizer to maintain formula stability, and as a mild antioxidant that chelates metal ions that would otherwise contribute to ingredient degradation over time.
In the Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum, citric acid serves a specific technical purpose. In a waterless, high-concentration formula built around 7% THD ascorbate (a vitamin C derivative), maintaining the appropriate pH environment is important for supporting the vitamin C's stability and preserving the antioxidant network of the formula over the product's use cycle.
At the concentrations used for pH adjustment in this context, citric acid is not present at the percentages associated with exfoliant activity. Its role here is precision and preservation - not surface exfoliation.
In its primary role as a pH adjuster, citric acid helps the Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum maintain a pH level consistent with healthy skin's own acid mantle (approximately 4.5 to 5.5). This is relevant because the enzymes associated with ceramide biosynthesis, antimicrobial defense, and barrier-related processes are pH-sensitive. A formula that disrupts the acid mantle - even temporarily - may not support the barrier processes it is designed to complement.
As a chelating agent, citric acid has an affinity for trace metal ions such as iron and copper that can enter a formula through raw materials or packaging. These metal ions are associated with accelerated degradation of sensitive actives like vitamin C and CoQ10. By sequestering them, citric acid contributes to the extended functional stability of every other active in the Oil-Serum.
Within the broader antioxidant network of the formula - which includes 7% THD ascorbate, 0.5% CoQ10/ubiquinone, tocopherol, and tocopheryl acetate - citric acid acts as a stabilizing foundation, helping to preserve the conditions under which every other antioxidant can function as intended through the product's full shelf life.
In 1 Formula
Citric acid is specific to the Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum, where its stabilizing properties are important to protecting a 100%-active, waterless formula from oxidative degradation over time.
Nourishment - Dry to Combination
Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum Citric Acid - 1.0 oz / 30 ml
A waterless, 100%-active serum delivering 7% THD ascorbate, 3% Matrikynes® bone peptides, 7% squalane, and a full barrier lipid complex. Citric acid maintains pH integrity and chelates pro-oxidant metals to support the stability of every active in this high-potency formula.
Stable Vitamin C THD Ascorbate
INCI: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.
A 7% oil-soluble vitamin C derivative in the Oil-Serum, associated with brightening and collagen-supportive activity and recognized for exceptional stability relative to L-ascorbic acid. Synergy Note: Citric acid helps maintain the pH conditions under which THD ascorbate remains stable and in its intended state - providing the chemical environment that supports the vitamin C's function over the product's use cycle.
Enzymatic Antioxidant CoQ10 / Ubiquinone
INCI: Ubiquinone.
At 0.5% in the Oil-Serum, CoQ10 is a fat-soluble antioxidant studied in connection with cellular energy support and free radical defense. Synergy Note: Citric acid's chelating character helps reduce pro-oxidant metal activity in the formula, contributing to the conditions that support CoQ10's stability and antioxidant contribution.
Tocopherol / Vitamin E Tocopherol + Tocopheryl Acetate
INCI: Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate.
Two forms of Vitamin E present in the Oil-Serum providing lipid-phase antioxidant protection and additional skin conditioning. Synergy Note: Citric acid contributes to the conditions that help tocopherol remain in its active, reduced form for longer throughout the product's use cycle.
ECM Peptide Complex Matrikynes® Bone Peptides
INCI: Hydrolyzed Cow Bone Extract.
A 3% concentrate of over 315 bioactive matrikine peptides associated with improvements in the appearance of skin density and aging signs. Synergy Note: By contributing to formula stability, citric acid helps ensure the peptide environment remains intact and the Matrikynes® complex can deliver its activity without interference from oxidative degradation.
