INCI: Heptyl Undecylenate - Also known as: Heptyl Undecanoate, Undecylenic Acid Heptyl Ester, Dermofeel PA-3

QUICK FACTS

What is Heptyl Undecylenate?

Heptyl Undecylenate is an ester produced by reacting undecylenic acid - a C11 unsaturated fatty acid derived from the steam distillation of castor oil - with heptanol, a C7 fatty alcohol derived from palm or coconut oil. The result is a lightweight, naturally derived ester with excellent emollient, spreading, and skin-conditioning properties that is used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic esters like isopropyl myristate or conventional mineral oil-derived emollients.

Undecylenic acid itself has an independent research profile in dermatology - it is the active ingredient in several OTC antifungal preparations and is studied in connection with a more balanced skin surface microbial environment. In its ester form as Heptyl Undecylenate, this biological character is greatly reduced (esterification changes the molecule's activity profile significantly), but trace contributions to a more balanced skin surface environment remain a studied secondary property of this ester class.

Heptyl Undecylenate (marketed as Dermofeel PA-3 by Dr. Straetmans) is valued in premium natural cosmetics formulation for its sustainability credentials alongside its sensory performance - it is derived entirely from renewable plant sources, is readily biodegradable, and carries Ecocert approval for use in natural and organic cosmetics. Its presence above 1% in both Sweet Chemistry creams reflects its functional importance to each formula's texture and skin-feel architecture.

What does it do for skin?

Heptyl Undecylenate functions primarily as a lightweight emollient and spreading agent, contributing to the smooth, even application feel of the cream formulas and supporting the distribution of the formula's active payload across the skin's surface. Its C11-C7 ester structure gives it a particularly elegant skin feel - lighter than many conventional plant oils and esters, with a dry-but-not-powdery finish that sits between the heavier richness of shea butter and the very dry feel of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate.

In the Hydra-Cream, where Heptyl Undecylenate is listed high on the ingredient list (above 1% and above the actives), it plays a foundational role in the formula's texture architecture. The Hydra-Cream's cushioned satin finish is partly a product of how Heptyl Undecylenate interacts with the Olivem lamellar emulsion structure and the crosspolymer rheology system - a collaboration of emollient ester, lamellar crystal emulsifier, and polymer that produces the distinctive feel for which this cream is known.

In the Lipid-Cream, where shea butter contributes a richer emollient character, Heptyl Undecylenate provides a lighter counterbalancing emollient dimension that prevents the formula from feeling heavy despite its 46% active concentration and dense botanical oil panel.

FOUND IN

In 3 Formulas

Heptyl Undecylenate is present above 1% in both Sweet Chemistry cream formulas and below 1% in the Oil-Serum - contributing sustainable, plant-derived emollient character across three of the four formulas in the Max Repair System.

Hydration - Dry to Normal

Elasticity Reinforcing Hydra-Cream Heptyl Undecylenate (above 1%) - 1.7 oz / 50 ml

In the Hydra-Cream, Heptyl Undecylenate is one of the primary emollient contributors above the 1% line, providing the lightweight, skin-like emollient foundation that supports the cushioned satin finish of this 40%-active formula.

Hydration - Dry to Dehydrated

Elasticity Reinforcing Lipid-Cream Heptyl Undecylenate (above 1%) - 1.7 oz / 50 ml

The Lipid-Cream delivers Heptyl Undecylenate as a lightweight emollient counterpart to the richer botanical oils and shea butter in the formula - supporting the emollient radiant finish without adding heaviness to a 46%-active emulsion.

Nourishment - Dry to Combination

Barrier Repairing Oil-Serum Heptyl Undecylenate (below 1%) - 1.0 oz / 30 ml

In the Oil-Serum, Heptyl Undecylenate contributes a minor emollient and spreading dimension within the anhydrous formula - supporting the even distribution of the 100%-active, waterless serum across the skin's surface.

WORKS TOGETHER WITH

Dry-Feel Emollient C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

INCI: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate.

Present in all four formulas as a lightweight dry-feel ester emollient. Synergy Note: Heptyl Undecylenate and C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate are both lightweight synthetic esters with complementary sensory profiles - Heptyl Undecylenate's naturally derived emollient richness and C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate's dry-feel spreading character together create a more complete emollient skin-feel approach than either provides alone.

Plant Butter Shea Butter

INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter.

Present in the Lipid-Cream alongside Heptyl Undecylenate. Synergy Note: Shea butter's richer, stearic acid-dominant emollience and Heptyl Undecylenate's lighter ester character are complementary - shea provides deep nourishing emollience while Heptyl Undecylenate contributes a lighter, faster-absorbing emollient layer that prevents the formula from feeling heavy.

Biomimetic Emulsifier Cetearyl Olivate + Sorbitan Olivate

INCI: Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate.

The Olivem 1000 primary emulsifier in both cream formulas. Synergy Note: Heptyl Undecylenate and the Olivem system are the two primary lipid-phase contributors to the skin feel of both cream formulas above the 1% line - the emulsifier provides lamellar structure while the ester provides spreading and emollient character within that structure.

ECM Peptide Complex Matrikynes® Bone Peptides

INCI: Hydrolyzed Cow Bone Extract.

At 3% in all four formulas. Synergy Note: Heptyl Undecylenate's spreading and emollient character supports even distribution of the Matrikynes® peptide complex across the skin surface during application - ensuring consistent peptide contact with the entire application area.