Cetearyl Olivate
INCI: Cetearyl Olivate - Also known as: Olivem 1000 (with Sorbitan Olivate), Olive-Derived Emulsifier, Olive Oil Ester
QUICK FACTS
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Key |
Value |
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INCI Name |
Cetearyl Olivate |
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Category |
Olive-Derived Emulsifier / Skin-Identical Lipid Complex |
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Concentration in Formula |
Above 1% in the Elasticity Reinforcing Hydra-Cream and Elasticity Reinforcing Lipid-Cream (always formulated as a pair with Sorbitan Olivate) |
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Suitable For |
All skin types, including sensitive and dry |
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Origin |
Plant-derived (from olive oil via esterification with cetearyl alcohol) |
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Irritation Risk |
Zero - among the most skin-compatible emulsifier systems available |
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Comedogenic Rating |
1 |
What is Cetearyl Olivate?
Cetearyl Olivate is an olive oil-derived emulsifier produced by esterifying olive oil fatty acids with cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of C16 and C18 fatty alcohols). It is the primary emulsifier in the Olivem 1000 system - a patented natural emulsifier combination developed by Hallstar that pairs Cetearyl Olivate with Sorbitan Olivate in a specific ratio. Olivem 1000 is widely studied and used in premium cosmetic formulation for its ability to create lamellar liquid crystal emulsion structures that closely resemble the lipid organization of the human stratum corneum - earning it the designation of a biomimetic emulsifier system.
This lamellar crystal structure is the defining characteristic that separates the Olivem system from conventional emulsifier technologies. Where standard O/W emulsifiers create droplet-based emulsions where oil is suspended as discrete globules in the water phase, Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate together organize into ordered lamellar structures that mimic the lipid bilayer architecture of healthy skin. Research has associated this structural similarity with improved skin compatibility and a more skin-like interaction at the application interface compared to conventional emulsifier systems.
At Sweet Chemistry, the Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate pair is the primary emulsifier system in both cream formulas - appearing above 1% and before the primary actives in the ingredient list, reflecting its functional importance to the structural integrity of each formula.
What does it do for skin?
Cetearyl Olivate's primary function is structural: it creates and maintains the lamellar liquid crystal emulsion architecture of the Sweet Chemistry cream formulas. In this role, it enables the stable co-delivery of high concentrations of both water-soluble actives (Matrikynes® peptides, niacinamide, the NMF complex, ceramides) and oil-soluble actives (THD ascorbate, tocopheryl acetate, botanical seed oils) within a single formula - a formulation challenge that Cetearyl Olivate's lamellar crystal structure handles with particular elegance.
The lamellar structure also contributes to the skin feel and delivery character of both creams. A lamellar liquid crystal emulsion applies with a notably smooth, skin-like feel - the ordered lipid layers interact with the skin's surface in a way that is studied in connection with a more comfortable, less occlusive application experience than conventional globular emulsions. This is relevant to Sweet Chemistry's cream formulas specifically because the high active concentration of both products (40% in the Hydra-Cream, 46% in the Lipid-Cream) needs to be delivered in a way that feels pleasant and absorbs cleanly.
Cetearyl Olivate's olive oil-derived fatty acid content also contributes mild emollient character at the skin surface - the oleic and linoleic acid esters it contains are skin-compatible lipids that leave the stratum corneum surface feeling conditioned rather than stripped after application.
FOUND IN
In 2 Formulas - Always Paired with Sorbitan Olivate
Cetearyl Olivate is always formulated alongside Sorbitan Olivate in both Sweet Chemistry cream formulas - the two components of the Olivem 1000 system function as an interdependent pair and are not effective in isolation.
Hydration - Dry to Normal
Elasticity Reinforcing Hydra-Cream Cetearyl Olivate + Sorbitan Olivate (above 1%) - 1.7 oz / 50 ml
The Olivem system creates the lamellar liquid crystal architecture of the Hydra-Cream's 40%-active emulsion - enabling the stable co-delivery of 3% Matrikynes® peptides, 2% THD ascorbate, the full ceramide barrier complex, and the complete NMF and antioxidant system in a cushioned satin finish for dry to normal skin.
Hydration - Dry to Dehydrated
Elasticity Reinforcing Lipid-Cream Cetearyl Olivate + Sorbitan Olivate (above 1%) - 1.7 oz / 50 ml
In the Lipid-Cream, the Olivem system creates the emulsion structure for a 46%-active formula - the highest active concentration in the water-based Sweet Chemistry range - enabling stable delivery of 3% Matrikynes® peptides, 2% THD ascorbate, shea butter, and the full botanical seed oil and ceramide complex in a radiant emollient finish.
WORKS TOGETHER WITH
Olivem Partner Sorbitan Olivate
INCI: Sorbitan Olivate.
The co-emulsifier in the Olivem 1000 system, always formulated alongside Cetearyl Olivate in both Sweet Chemistry cream formulas. Synergy Note: Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate form the two-component Olivem 1000 system - they function interdependently to create the lamellar liquid crystal emulsion structure that neither ingredient produces alone. They are formulated and should be understood as a single system rather than two separate ingredients.
Rheology Modifier Xanthan Gum + Carbomer + Polyvinyl Alcohol
INCI: Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polyvinyl Alcohol.
The rheology system that supports the Olivem emulsion structure in both cream formulas. Synergy Note: The Olivem lamellar structure provides the primary emulsification architecture; the polymer rheology system provides viscosity, stability, and the precise application texture of each cream. Together they create a complete emulsion system that is both structurally elegant and aesthetically refined.
Co-Emulsifier Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate + Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
INCI: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate.
Supporting emulsifiers in both cream formulas that complement the primary Olivem system. Synergy Note: The secondary emulsifiers support and reinforce the Olivem primary emulsification system at lower concentrations, broadening the emulsification coverage and contributing to the long-term stability of the cream formulas.
ECM Peptide Complex Matrikynes® Bone Peptides
INCI: Hydrolyzed Cow Bone Extract.
At 3% in all four formulas. Synergy Note: The Olivem system's lamellar structure is what enables Matrikynes® peptides to be stably co-delivered at 3% in a complex high-active cream emulsion - without the right emulsion architecture, achieving this active concentration with the required stability would not be possible.