INCI: Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate - Also known as: N-Stearoyl-L-Glutamic Acid Sodium Salt, Amisoft HS-11

QUICK FACTS

What is Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate?

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an N-acyl amino acid surfactant - a class of emulsifiers produced by condensing a fatty acid (in this case stearic acid, C18) with an amino acid (L-glutamic acid) and neutralizing the result with sodium hydroxide. The product is a sodium salt with an amphiphilic structure: a glutamic acid-derived head group linked through an amide bond to a stearic acid tail. N-acyl amino acid surfactants as a class are studied as among the mildest emulsifier options in cosmetic formulation - their amino acid head groups are recognized by the skin as more biocompatible than conventional synthetic surfactant head groups, and their mildness in comparative irritation assessments consistently ranks among the best in their category.

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate belongs to the same N-acyl glutamate family as Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, differing only in its C18 stearic acid tail versus the C12 lauric acid tail of the lauryl form. Its longer carbon chain gives it a more lipophilic character and makes it better suited to the richer cream emulsion environments where it is used in the Sweet Chemistry system.

At Sweet Chemistry, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is formulated alongside Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate in both cream formulas as part of the secondary emulsifier system that supports and reinforces the primary Olivem 1000 (cetearyl olivate / sorbitan olivate) emulsification architecture.

What does it do for skin?

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate's primary function in the Sweet Chemistry cream formulas is emulsion support - contributing additional emulsification coverage within the cream system that helps maintain the stability and homogeneity of both formulas over their full shelf life and use cycle. As a secondary emulsifier alongside Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, it broadens the emulsification spectrum of the cream system at low concentrations, addressing emulsification needs that the primary Olivem system may not cover alone.

Its amino acid-derived head group contributes a degree of skin conditioning at the application interface - the glutamic acid moiety is recognized by the skin's own amino acid environment as a familiar molecule, contributing to the comfortable, skin-like feel of both cream formulas. Its C18 stearic acid tail also adds a mild emollient contribution at the skin surface, consistent with the broader lipid-conditioning approach of both cream formulas.

The mildness of N-acyl amino acid surfactants at the concentrations used in emulsification roles is a meaningful benefit in products designed to support rather than compromise the skin's barrier - ensuring that the emulsifier system itself does not add to the barrier disruption that the formula's ceramides, Matrikynes® peptides, and soothing actives are working to address.

FOUND IN

In 2 Formulas

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is specific to Sweet Chemistry's two cream formulas, where it supports the secondary emulsification system alongside Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate.

Hydration - Dry to Normal

Elasticity Reinforcing Hydra-Cream Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate - 1.7 oz / 50 ml

In the Hydra-Cream, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate reinforces the Olivem 1000 primary emulsifier system within a 40%-active formula delivering 3% Matrikynes® peptides, 2% THD ascorbate, and the full ceramide barrier complex.

Hydration - Dry to Dehydrated

Elasticity Reinforcing Lipid-Cream Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate - 1.7 oz / 50 ml

In the Lipid-Cream, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate supports emulsion stability within the most active-concentrated water-based formula in the Sweet Chemistry lineup.

WORKS TOGETHER WITH

Primary Emulsifier System Cetearyl Olivate + Sorbitan Olivate

INCI: Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate.

The Olivem 1000 primary emulsifier system in both cream formulas. Synergy Note: Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate supports the Olivem primary emulsifier architecture at a lower concentration rather than competing with it - together they create a layered emulsification approach with broader coverage and stability than the primary system alone.

Co-Emulsifier Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

INCI: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate.

The C12 companion emulsifier present alongside Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate in both cream formulas. Synergy Note: Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (C18 fatty acid chain) and Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (C12 fatty acid chain) are complementary mild emulsifiers with different carbon chain lengths - together they cover a broader range of interfacial activity than either alone, reinforcing the cream's emulsion stability across different emulsification environments.

ECM Peptide Complex Matrikynes® Bone Peptides

INCI: Hydrolyzed Cow Bone Extract.

At 3% in all four formulas. Synergy Note: Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate's emulsification support helps maintain the even distribution of Matrikynes® peptides throughout both cream formulas - consistent emulsion stability and consistent peptide delivery are directly connected.